The Franz Josef Glacier – and possibly the walk of my life …

At some point a few days earlier I had agreed to go on a glacier walk with the others. As the day neared, I began to have doubts, particularly when I had felt so exhausted on the gully walk out of Arrowtown. The night before the appointed walk we had to go along to the glacier tour place to get a safety briefing and we were warned it may not take place as heavy rain was forecast, despite the sun shining at this point. Apparently they are not concerned about you getting wet, but in order to reach the glacier you have to cross several streams that in heavy rain quickly become impassable. And guess what…..if the rain comes down and is unexpected, you have to be rescued by helicopter. The day of the walk dawned and it was pouring down and had poured all night so it was not a surprise when the walk was cancelled. Everyone accused me of having been up all night doing a rain dance to make sure it would be. We were given an opportunity to do the walk the next day or have our money back and the rest of the Macs enthusiastically confirmed their places for the day after – meaning I could either spend all day worrying if they would return, ever, or go with them. It rained pretty much all day and all the next night so again I was confident it would be cancelled, but it started to slow down and it was forecast to get brighter, so the walk was on!!

We were told we could not wear jeans as if they got wet people would not be able to warm up, so it was board shorts or other trousers, plus over trousers. Then we were given jackets, socks, boots, crampons and a bum bag. We had already been told to wear 3-4 base layers. It seemed very organised which was reassuring but I felt really sick with nerves. After a short drive to the river base we were divided into five groups according to fitness levels. Looking around J and I were probably the oldest people there, so despite my high levels of personal fitness (as those of you who have been reading the blog intently will testify to), I took the cautious approach and opted for the lowest level group. Unfortunately, so did many others and so people were reallocated – including the younger Macs, who went first to group 4 and were then bumped up again to the top group!!

The first sighting of the glacier was incredible. We had been to one before in the Rockies which was flat as I recall but this seemed to tumble down the gorge in a very dramatic fashion. It looked as if it would be a short walk to reach it but actually it was about 2.5km away across the river base. At several points we had to cross the river, Adam our guide strode straight across through the water not even trying to keep dry. Initially I did the stepping stone wobble, trying to go from stone to stone, but then realised that as the water was so fast flowing, and the stones very wobbly, I risked getting everything wet not just my feet. Adam told me that it was certain I would get wet feet as the glacier was a temperate one (one of only 3 in the world that are apparently), so following his lead, I took to strolling boldly through the rivers. It may have been my imagination, but at this point on the walk (on the approach to the glacier) we were passing members of the general public, some dressed wholly inappropriately in shorts and flip flops. I think they were looking at us, following Adam with his pickaxe and shovel, with awe…or was it amazement??

Adam was an entertaining guide, full of stories about deaths on the ice, who and how, which you will understand increased my confidence levels no end. He did however say that most deaths are due to ignorance of the conditions and inappropriate behaviour or lack of equipment. Anyhow on reaching the glacier we had to put on our crampons and were given guidance as to how to use them and more safety lessons, stressing the need to do exactly what we were told and to keep close to Adam at all times. I was already close but from that moment I became a limpet. The rain over the preceding day had washed away the steps that had been cut into the ice so all morning all the other guides had been on the glacier shovelling away the debris, securing the ropes, and testing the safety of the crevasses we were due to walk through. The glacier was immense and the vertical ascent we had to make to climb on to it daunting, but I was actually less concerned about my physical ability than of slipping and disappearing. At this point one woman decided enough was enough and turned back, but as she was not allowed to walk back alone, that meant radioiing for another guide to accompany her.

Going on the ice was exciting after the tension of the build up and I was reassured to find that the crampons made me stable. Very quickly the sheer beauty of the place helped me, if not exactly forget the dangers, to see past them and enjoy the experience. This despite the pretty heavy rain that had started almost as soon as our walk began. The colours were amazing, pure white and then ice blue, with shapes curved out of them naturally, and even some tiny waterfalls and pools. We were led through crevasses and gullies, pulling on the ropes (which were freezing) to keep our balance on the very steep ascents and descents, and then just walking over hill tops freely. Adam congratulated me on my crampon action which chuffed me no end (heel first, plant foot straight down, knees slightly bent). At one point he also said I had climbed up the steps like a mountain goat!! ME!! I am now officially reborn readers…..

We were closely followed by an arctic parrot that seemed completely fearless. Adam however nurtured a very particular hatred of the bird shooing it away and cursing people if they dropped any food for it. He told us that one of these birds had personally caused him about $1200 worth of damage to his equipment. While camping on the ice one bird had literally shredded his tent with its talons, out of pure malice he said. The same bird then shredded his boots that he had left outside his tent! Another bird had once locked his mate in a bothy he was staying overnight in, drawing the bolt across, and he had had to break a window to get out. They are known to be one of the most intelligent birds in the world with the intelligence of a 3-5 year old! Since the walk I have read that they are attracted to shiny objects, and have been known to peck at your eyes!!

Physically, I found the walk pretty easy. It was only about 10kmin in total, and I think our day resting helped me recuperate. I definitely do much better in the cold than the heat, and it was absolutely freezing. The first thing I am going to do before going walking again in the cold is buy some over trousers – much more flexible than salopettes and they kept me toasty warm and dry – even when wading through the rivers. We completed the walk safely. I did draw blood though – my little finger was grazed on the ice! On the downhill stretch we came close enough to the kid’s group to shout over to them and their smiles let me know that they were absolutely loving it.

I think this may well be the walk of my life…….

 

 Before we set off!

Looking anxious – but hanging on Adam’s every word!

Nearing the top and beginning to feel the relief

Wet but happy!

Looking up (and using the zoom to see the kids alive and happy!)

Adam clearing the way!

And this one is especially for my bird-phobic friend Cathy!  The arctic parrot!

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